An Interview with Marc Balet: A Lifetime in Design, Fashion, and Film, from Warhol to Scorsese

Marc Balet is among the most impactful personalities in contemporary American fashion and art. He was awarded Prix de Rome Architecture a Fellow of Academy (1973-1975). also solo exhibition, Dreamhousing (September 5-30, 1973), by Architectural League New York at Whitney Museum Art. worked with Andy Warhol as creative director Warhol's Interview magazine (1976-1988) MTV show Fifteen Minutes (1985-1987). marketing personalities/brands such Giorgio Armani, Barney's York, Anne Klein, La Perla, Nike, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, many others, creating successful campaigns that turn have elevated image designers their products.Fig. 1. his loft Manhattan, 2022. All images artwork © permission. Martin Scorsese Creative Consultant for Netflix series Pretend It's City (2021) acclaimed filmmaker Derek Jarman on productions include Miss Gaby (1972). featured The Diaries (2022) film Eyes Laura Mars (1978). has conceptualized publications Vogue Patterns, Fame, Connoisseur, he been Director art books including Be-Spoke (2023), Kenny Scharf (2009), Party Book (1988). studied fine arts architecture Rhode Island School Design. shown work Institute Contemporary Arts London, MoMA PS1, Art, University's Grey Art Gallery Study Center, Design, Domus, magazine, Women's Wear Daily Times. collaborated Italian group Florentine conceptual architects, Super Studio/Studio 9999, lectured Cambridge University. calls Tales photographic simulacra urban environmental concepts, which develops fantastical architectural structures titles “The Bleeding Arms Hotel,” “Vacation Dreamhouse,” “Things Go Better Fuller,” “City Limits,” “Instant City,” Tea House Condominium,” “Palazzo Putti,” Room Above Pool,” “My Bridgehampton,” “Garden Apartments,” well Topiary Home” or Tree House.” These elaborate constructs cities, homes, gardens, open spaces, lakes, highways, etc. within frame sustainable eco-friendly concept. His pieces defined “a real stopper” catching viewer's attention, Times 1983 (Glueck) Musée: Vanguard Photography Culture several other venues. While Balet's can be related to Stefano Boeri's Vertical Forest, mentions Frank Gehry's influence landscapes (Balet 2021). models existed outside sequences, makes them permanent through photography videos made, writing, Dreamhouse journal Design (Cosmorama, 1973). Fig. 2. homes. Victoria Surliuga (VS): Thank you agreeing this interview Journal Culture. I would like ask about aspects your work, international experiences, development artistic sensibilities thought. know biography never entirely planned; same time, it become emblematic when carefully recognizable steps. It builds itself over years thanks coincidences, specific interests, abilities. Looking eventful life, seems original plan pursue architecture, then got into marketing, now are going back miniature housing projects, some new first began 1973 exhibition begin discussing early days career design publishing. You Warhol, who praises Diaries: “I miss Marc—he's talented does lot, although he'd do even more if weren't so busy all freelance stuff, Armani ads things” (Hackett 629-630). Furthermore, Diaries, say learned everything designing layout publication publishing while working Interview. To me, difficult imagine stages because than established, looking ahead work. For reason, what interesting general. (MB): First all, had full-time job until hired me. Just give little bit background, my second year Fran Lebowitz came visit friends mine. They brought her up she herself Academy. This 1975. We became months later, we met lunch, talked stuff. started type column, favor her, just something do. no job; living friend's house Gramercy Park. Then, montages collages illustrate column called Cover Waterfront. So, they knew me Factory, certainly did were photographs doing. At certain point, up. said, “You should walk Factory Director,” “Well, directed anything.” 3. Balet. Lebowitz.” Interview, November 1979, p. 86. graduated an architect. My always graphically inclined drawing sculpture, but anything. “Go Director.” And so, did. went over, let saw standing corner, “Listen, Director?” said yes, start career. per se. imagined how looked, beginning change look periodical there, older movie journal. personality different kinds celebrities, not movies writing everything. loved continued there eleven years. As result, learn job. There assistant made along. dreams images, come next day, talk photographers stylists, hair make-up people, thinking dreaming about. lot magazine. Getting community big deal call once month Wednesdays from 11am 1pm, anyone could see took number, that's, example, David LaChapelle started, photographers. pictures, someone xerox. way day; xerox liked, kept few volumes photographers’ that, somebody, editor, say, “We doing person, want cover.” I'd think thought best bring out each subject's personality. 4. cover, April 1986. we'd photograph them, run pictures large format. thank God, format probably biggest time. used “Interview bigger Life,” Life quite big, bigger, able showcase these nobody else us. size 5. December VS: How Warhol? him? MB: extremely supportive left alone wanted Once discussion. remember photo, ran double page Norris Church, wife very important writer, [Norman Mailer]. Church red-haired gal nights before [the photoshoot] dream golden galleon crashing Church's waves. put team together shot beautiful picture plastic ship, bought assembled. spray-painted gold set. There, explained stylist, Kerry Warn, Freddie Leiba, idea was, loved. excited it. After published, office really good picture. What do?” “What talking about, Andy? People love picture.” nose, shoot woman's nose. pigs. Never again.” nose again. clearly right. usual. things Andy. didn't any arguments, few. alone. Everyone pretty much [The Diaries], we, sending smoke signals rest country. time internet, cell phones, bookstore store, there. Certain people it, didn't, those A seeking kind crazy life part like, “Wow, go scene.” read followed heart intuition city, know, felt whatever to. Too bad them. Or too Well, yes. don't care, make judgement, special place. Absolutely. Next, politics watching series, noticed captured irrational beliefs already had, led feature natural remedies during AIDS crisis dying right endorsed therapeutic crystals treatment. Do specific, however odd moment journal's history reflected confusion anarchy editorial staff? Not didn't. one editors wonderful Robert Hayes, die AIDS, boyfriend. mean, mine, passed away horrible disgusting disease. crystals. am crystal person unless it's stemware. understand. believed trying safe, scared. By every day fantasy directing advertising Barney's, companies, keep myth going. still dreams, times through, help serve dreams. happy immune around us, Your narrative explanation specifically moving moment. can't said. right, use expression, endorsing asked [in series], Personally, that's follow, whole culture, believe regular medicine getting check-up. desperate attitude towards handle. provide momentary comfort. Mexico cures things. rational am, thought, “Those seem me.” unfortunately, government paying attention its head sand, hideous Reagan era. exemplified worst humanity far concerned. fuck Minutes, opinion known watch. clips YouTube. watch it; estate reason. Washington D.C. client wandering National walking Kenneth Noland James Rosenquist paintings, hear voices sounded familiar gallery find upon wall showing our credits, voices, images. shocked Because out, allows why, anywhere. fun do, mostly Don Monroe, brilliant, Vincent Fremont: produced two direct. photographing, instance, photographing Diana Ross whoever video staff, three shooting – television show, both get done imagery well. lasted, guess Vincent's Andy's TV show. great title half-hour wish running ago see. nostalgic amazing kids seen forty ago, looked spectacular. involved production. it? do? in, whenever. forget after six another Patterns That's paid money parents tired shelling 25-26 old, “This thing bills, bills you, it.” job.” job, day. Iran Shah paintings him something, much, leaving, money. will pay money, opportunity being here, on.” night Iran: Andy, saying, “No, leave, Don't tell keeping old We'll you'll lunchtime, end And, no, stay.” heard freelancing. seven eight work?” “You'll figure out.” bicycle hit cocaine, bike biking returning Spring Street couple found ok,” ok, both,” lasted. That arrangement. great. young afraid, try mother no. hell think, we'll out. Take chance, again, matter Hindus say. only shot. must prepared not. Dress one, think. celebrity culture established notorious infamous “fifteen minutes fame.” now? affected has. With social media, longer fifteen minutes; fame, does. poets. Let's self-publish, neighbor write review, blog, reviewed.” Even literary scene changed significantly this. cliché, thing, media. media done. I'm brightest bulb There's nothing wrong celebrities years—eleven, twelve, that—because magazines driven. shift died, power celebrities. everyone [covered]; flame to, hard hippest around, thrilled. wasn't insane demand place people. mini stars putting obviously stars. thrilled pages happy. varied personalities. hanging ever London Rome, Paris, culture. When leap, leap understanding. Sometimes cajole envisioned. photo. judged delivered whether photographer celebrity. interest wouldn't couldn't deliver. photograph. question understood narrate describe interaction him. impressed won Rome. now. Look everybody. me: pleasant-looking guy seemed spirit chance. turned bringing doing, family in. Brigid Berlin us “lifers.” forever [that] were. director, narrating, trained Would organizing structured visual core work? ties activity years? create stunning visual/creative scale enjoy control, set where charge photo less what's on. landscapes, total control environment, acting godlike. meant ironic commentary society. tree piece takes earnest task. created model grows sustaining furniture, toilet, sinks stove, grown tree. impossibility realized. designed covers various Detour magazines, Mirabella, Ralph Lauren, Being (part re-branding initiative Jockey). elaborated entire shots photographers, artists, models, coordinating talents orchestra director. challenges collaboration others? Years photoshoot company. I'll leave unnamed. van, upper 5th Avenue, previously completed shooting, clothing, hair, make-up. book hairdresser: day's hairdresser booked famous rapturing her. “ok,” hairdresser, famous, copy yesterday, no-no; artist, let's artist. Anyway, client, yelling woman, runs down stairs van shoot, 85th Street, screaming, go, “Oh on?” client. she's athletic, fast yelling, can't, can't.” finally, caught “Stop, take wrong. live hair.” “Please calm down, photoshoot. photoshoot, way. Come She hysterically crying way, hysterical. down. model, calmed sheer determination, proceeded shooting. Ultimately, fine, finally normal. stories, basically, relate be: diplomat sure you're want, wants, makeup wants. feed mouths forceful also, convey answering to.” following rules rules. If wild, sometimes steam out; “Okay, wanted, works end.” concept worth salt, leader. problems should. solving problems, hairdresser. In campaigns, shoots layouts publication. Donna Karan, Armani. Whom with? them? enjoying most? rarely shoots. Mr. Milan photoshoots ads. Karan Louis Dell'Olio Klein. then. lunch ago. haven't fun. taste. Their studio hang tight Pressmans Barney's. oriented. Gene Pressman father mother, Steven Meisel whom rent equipment own Seidner, fantastic, Gordon Munro Scott Heiser, amazing, and, confidence fact Warhol: likes him, can, stamp approval, lucky. discuss (you introduced 8 camera), Scorsese, Andrew Rossi. Jarman, reading won't brilliant artist moved finishing rented Islington. do: couldn't. No hire tried touch named Jarman. recommended referred London. “It nice meet anywhere.” York. last phone call; answered phone; Bankside. Living lofts rare sat legs dangling Thames spent finished sets Devils gave camera stop action animation,” “Let's movie,” camera.” films, almost making films meeting housemates, today. responsible happen t